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The Amblève valley by camper van
5 DAYS, 200 km
From Liège to Comblain-au-pont
From Liège, we embark on an exploration of the great lakes, the jewel of the Hautes-Fagnes region and the Amblève Valley. This varied itinerary has a few surprises in store!
We start our journey in the Walloon province of Liège, above the spa town of Chaudfontaine. At the village of Ninane we take the Bois-les-Dames walking trail and become familiar with this environment that was previously unknown to us. A heath of gold dotted with solitary bushes... these calamine soils produce irresistably beautiful scenery. A legacy of the metal industry that has contributed strongly to the local economy. For forty kilometres or so along the road to Verviers, this industrial heritage has left its mark on the landscape.
Soiron, happiness is a landscape of green
From Trooze we travel across pleasant countryside towards Olne and Soiron, two hamlets featuring among the Most Beautiful Villages of Wallonia. Time is ticking by, it's nearly 2 pm and we still haven't eaten. In Soiron, a grocery store looks very busy! On this Saturday afternoon, the autumn sun shines down on customers sitting outside the "Du coq à l'âne". We park Swinguy, our loyal 4-wheeled companion, at "Place des Voisins Sympas", and enjoy the atmosphere of this picturesque village over a delicious meal concocted from local produce and washed down with a local beer brewed by the village brotherhood. We're amazed at how easy it is to talk to people here. After gleaning some precious advice from the locals, we resume our journey, travelling for about 15 kilometres to the village of Limbourg.
Ostbelgium: where cultures meet
We learn that this village full of character stands on the border with the Eastern Cantons (Ostbelgium) where most of the German-speaking Community lives as a federated entity of Belgium. Thanks to Jupiler! But we had totally overlooked this fact! So Simon instantly reverts to his school German, much to the amusement of the people he talks to. Well at least he's trying, but we soon notice that practically everybody here understands French and finds it perfectly normal to switch instantly from one language to another. Just like the changing scenery that's leading, unbeknown to us, to the most incredible part of our itinerary.
The Hautes-Fagnes region: our favourite!
We spend the night near the Waimes forest, in the Haute-Fagnes Nature Park. A sweet melancholy surrounds this peaty landscape in the autumn mist... We're only 50 kilometres from Liège, but we feel as if we've been teleported to one of those landscapes in Finland that we like so much. Bewitched by this timeless place, we decide to stay a little longer and explore the area. The sun comes out again so we head for the timber boardwalks that disappear into this majestic setting. Then we prolong the pleasure further on the country's highest terrace at the young and trendy Peak Beer brewery in Sourbrodt, not far from the Signal de Botrange.
Down in the valley, at the edge of the woods, you wake up in total serenity
The next morning, we wake up to see mist over Gileppe lake and the dam. Once again we experience that mystical atmosphere that only the Ardennes can offer! Our journey takes us deeper into Ostbelgium, where the lakes of Robertville and Butgenbach await us, after a visit to the romantic Reinhardstein castle.
We've just about clocked up a hundred kilometres. Now we're entering the Amblève valley for the most bucolic part of our trip. Our road winds across green pastures that alternate with forests along the riverbank. A haven of peace in which to enjoy a revitalising walk or spend a few nights in the wilderness. Down in the valley, at the edge of the woods, you wake up in total serenity.
From the source to the brewery
As we approach the (two) Sources Nature Park, whose name refers to the rivers Amblève and Spa, a rolling landscape unfurls. The presence in this region of many preserved freshwater sources has attracted a number of breweries. Thus, when we reach Trois-Ponts, we take a little detour to visit the Lienne brewery in Lierneux, where Nicolas and his sister, Mélissa, have enthusiastically brewed their beer since 2013. Between rural villages and forests, the landscape now opens up into rolling green hills. This is where we try a most unusual activity, surrounded by farm animals in the fabulous panoramic setting of the Farmers' Golf course in Stoumont! What better way to end our trip before a gentle return to Comblain-au-Pont, where the River Amblève flows into the Ourthe. That's given us a few ideas for prolonging our wonderful Ardennes adventure.
CAMPER VAN FACILITIES ALONG THE WAY
Gileppe Dam
Route de la Gileppe, 4845 Jalhay.
Five pitches near the dam reserved for camper vans with electricity. It's free of charge so often full, but you can also spend the night on the large car park from where there's a beautiful view in the morning.
Butgenbach Worriken Campsite
On the banks of Butgenbach lake. Ideal for a stopover with walks and other outdoor activities in the vicinity. From €19 to €29.
Malmedy
A service area for camper vans near the old Malmedy station, 400 metres from the centre. Parking: €5. Water: €0.50. Electricity: €0.50
A 200 km discovery of the great eastern lakes, the Fens, the banks of the Amblève and the town of Liège