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The Meuse valley by camper van
6 DAYS, 280 km
Winding from Maastricht (Netherlands) to Mouzon (France) across the Ardennes massif, the Meuse is the common thread between three countries, a backbone linking human history, heritage and legends. Let us tell you about our incredible journey.
I've always wanted to return to Maastricht! From my years as an Erasmus student here, I carry many happy and carefree memories full of promise. I'm certain it was this cosmopolitan town straddling the River Meuse that gave me a taste for travel. So I'm jittering with impatience at the idea of showing Simon what, in my opinion, makes the Netherlands so appealing! From the Roman bridge in the town centre, we gaze vaguely at the barges travelling back and forth in a subdued atmosphere that announces the close of the day. As far back as I can remember, I've been told how much influence the Meuse has had on the life of man over the centuries...
Maastricht-Liège-Namur: town and country
Approaching Visé, we find ourselves in Wallonia where we immediately notice that, as far as the river is concerned, it makes no difference whatsoever which side of the border we're on! It flows stolidly on, totally forgiving of man's conquest of its banks and loops. We follow this rather built-up section and soon reach the town of Liège.
This "burning city" full of humour and buzzing with life, offers wonderful panoramic views from the hills of the Citadel. We make the most of a sunny day to explore the different neighbourhoods of the town centre and the impressive Guillemins station, not forgetting the Meuse quayside and Boverie park.
Around Seraing, we visit towns whose industrial heritage is steeped in history, while the province of Liège extends an invitation to explore the verdant plains of its countryside, as well as the villages of Thon and Mozet which are rated among the most beautiful in Wallonia. We spend the night in the calm of the nearby Samson valley, before leaving the following day to tackle the Citadel of Namur.
Namur - Dinant: tackling the fortresses!
What an incredible building, at the meeting point between the Sambre and Meuse rivers! Of all the fortresses that stand proudly above this valley, Namur is the one we find the most awe-inspiring. Even the rainy weather can't spoil the enchantment. After all, this is the town that made the snail its emblem! To get out of the rain, we go for a local carbonade and a Namur white beer, before ending our visit with a tour of the galleries under the fortress.
We're now toing and froing on either side of the river, like hesitant onlookers. The valley turns luxuriously green, then gradually gives way to rocky heights. We arrive at Dinant, a splendid town with some typical features: a collegiate church, some colourful houses and, to top it all, an imposing citadel on a rocky spur overhanging the town. We spend the night up here, with the sole regret that we can't admire the view early in the morning, as we have to wait until the enclosure opens to reach the panoramic viewpoint and take the funicular to the town centre.
Loops of the Meuse: a heavenly setting!
The road then follows the riverbank to Heer, at the French border. We progress into the Ardennes massif along the Eastern canal. Here begins one of the most bucolic parts of the valley where a few remains of a once-prosperous industry can still be seen. The old barge towpaths are now cycle paths, which we willingly follow to make the most of the decidedly idyllic scenery!
From Monthermé, where the Meuse meets the Semois, we leave early in the morning to climb up to "Longue Roche". The view is heavenly from above the valley, still covered in a thick layer of cotton wool. We can hear the incessantly rhythmic sound of hammering from the metal factory below us. Its 7.30 am and sunrise. At 8 am, the church bells ring, echoed by the cries of children. By 10, the village has emerged from its foam and life appears. We descend from our Cloud 9 with a new understanding of how this area has inspired so many legends!
Charleville-Mézières/Mouzon: a historical walk
We gradually leave the Ardennes massif and head for Charleville-Mézières where the River Meuse pursues its meandering, flowing between the ancient city of Mézières and the town built by Charles de Gonzague... "Charleville"! We're surprised to learn that it wasn't until 1966 that the towns came together to form a single municipality! We park a stone's throw away and wander around Place Ducale - an impressive replica of the Place des Vosges in Paris. We visit the parish of Notre Dame de l'Espérance with its unusual stained glass windows, and finish at the museum devoted to Rimbaud, who lived here.
It's time to say goodbye to our companion, the River Meuse, but not without first visiting the impenetrable castle of Sedan. As we cross the fields to Mouzon, the mutual feeling is that the Meuse may have told us many stories, but certainly not all its secrets!
Camper van facilities along the way
Maastricht (Netherlands)
A quiet, well-appointed service area by the River Meuse, 2.5 km from the town centre, just a 15-minute trip via the cycle paths. Ideal, although a little pricey at €18.50/night.
Camper van service area
Maastricht Marina
Hoge Weerd 20, 6229 AM Maastricht
Monthermé (France)
A very pretty, well-appointed and inexpensive service area at an ideal location on the banks of the Meuse, in the town centre and near the Véloroute cycle path. What more could you wish for? €3.40/day with free water supply. €2.80/day for electricity.
Camper van service area
Quai Aristide Briand
08800 Monthermé
Charleville-Mézières (France)
Practical for visiting the town just across the River Meuse, 500 metres away. Camper van: €12.70 per day plus €4.60 per adult per day. There's also a free parking area with 8 pitches next to the campsite.
Mont Olympe Municipal Campsite
74 Rue des Pâquis
08000 Charleville-Mézières
Closely linked with the history of this region, the impetuous River Meuse is the very backbone of the Ardennes region