Semois valley

The Semois valley by camper van

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Péripléties

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From fertile plains to mysterious forests, welcome to a land of legends...

The Semois valley by camper van

3 DAYS, 143 km

 

From Arlon to Bouillon and across the region of Gaumes, the Semois valley shelters fertile plains and mysterious forests that tell a whole host of legends all the way to the River Meuse. Welcome to the beating heart of the Ardennes.

 

We began our tour at Arlon, at the source of the River Semois which, 140 km downstream, becomes the Semoy as it crosses the border. Not that it matters - whichever way you spell it, there are plenty of ways to describe it! But one thing everyone agrees on is that no valley can be more enchanting than this one. Here lies the very essence of the Ardennes region, with its generous hills, mysterious forests, its legends, its local produce and authentic people. We get a first overview in the Gaume region's Etalle forest, and at a restaurant named "Au Coeur de la Gaume" in the small neighbouring village of Ethe. The welcome is warm and the Gaume paté and local stew are actually served by the fireside!

The owner regularly stokes the fire using branches piled outside the door and we are serenaded by the words of Yves Montand: "Les feuilles mortes se ramassent à la pelle..." ("Fallen leaves can be picked up by the shovelful...") Indeed, the leaves are falling! But there are still enough left on the trees to make this landscape sparkle for us.

Villages full of character

On the distant horizon, the village rooftops emerge from the mist. For now, the Semois flows peacefully across the plain, appearing briefly here and there as we cross bridges and explore some characterful towns and villages, such as Tintigny, Jamoigne, Chiny and… Florenville. The latter provides our first panoramic view over the valley, from the viewpoint outside the church. We decide to stop a few kilometres further on, at Chassepierre (rated one of the most beautiful villages of Wallonia), a village with some exceptional heritage features. The next day, we stroll in the little streets, then along the River Semois. The water glistens on this cold but sunny morning, and the magic operates. Our walk ends at dawn with a coffee in one of the village inns. Just the fuel we need before starting our day of ecstasy!

On the road of legends

 

The Semois meanders through the massif, widening and narrowing in the valley that's sometimes open, sometimes steep. The itinerary is dotted with some fantastic viewing points. One of the most amazing and easiest to reach is in the village of Herbeumont, from the ruins of the 14th-century castle that belonged to Count Evrard de la Marck (as did the castles of Neufchâteau, Bouillon and Sedan). Lower down, the wooded ridge known as the Tombeau du Chevalier (knight's tomb) can be seen, encircled by the Semois which could easily qualify as an enormous tomb. Like many sites in the Ardennes, this one is steeped in legend. Sometimes the myth mingles with reality. Thus, on our arrival in Bouillon, less than thirty kilometres on, we're faced with the legendary epic of Godefroy the knight, whose impressive fortress stands high on the rock, displaying all its might to the entire town.

A dreamlike sight in the mist

 

The road climbs, taking us up and down this hilly landscape that leaves us in awe. The banks of the Semois invite us to stop in the depths of the valley or high on the hills to enjoy even more splendid views. You only have to see this dreamlike vision once - when the early morning mist sets in for several hours - and you're enchanted forever. It's true that a camper van is a choice venue for nature's spectators! And we make sure we stop at Rochehaut, for a view over Frahan and at Botassart for the Giant's Tomb.

 

Joining the River Meuse

We make the most of these magical moments on the forest paths, connecting with nature, although autumn is also a time for hunters and some of the paths are closed. We reach the Gros-Fays plateau where we enjoy walking amid nature, before heading down to Vresse-sur-Semois to spend the night on the border with the province of Namur. After crossing the fleetingly romantic Pont de Claie bridge, we continue to the Road of Legends which takes us gently back to France. At Monthermé, the Semois and all its legends flow into the River Meuse. The Bayard horse, the four sons of Aymon, the ladies of the Meuse... we could end our journey here, but decide to take to the heights of Monthermé for one last thrilling moment. We head for the Hauts-Buttés, then the fascinating Croix-Scaille site. Although this area on the border between France and Belgium isn't far away (via a 7 km hiking trail), with the camper van we have to take a longer route via the lovely town of Gedinne. So here we are sitting at the top of the millenary tower, a spectacular viewpoint offering panoramic views over the entire massif. Breathtaking!

 

 

Camper van facilities along the way

 

Camper van service area

"Aux deux eaux"

Rue du Monument, 6730 Tintigny

Very quiet service area in the countryside on the banks of the Semois, with plenty of space between pitches, and a campsite nearby. €10 for a pitch with facilities and power supply.

 

Camper van service area

Poupehan

Narrow access road, the Rue du Pont. Free parking, wastewater disposal and water supply. Electricity tokens available at Bouillon Tourist Office or the restaurant "Un p'tit coin à screute" (450 m). 20 parking spaces at a quiet location on the banks of the Semois. Picnic tables and kayak rentals.

 

Camper van service area

Bogny-sur-Meuse

New service area with 20 tarmacked pitches and security cameras. €3/night from May to September and €2.80 for electricity. Free of charge from October to April but without electricity. Euro-Relais station (€2) for wastewater disposal and water supply.

 

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