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Castle-to-castle tour by camper van
4 DAYS, 215 km
Luxembourg boasts some fascinating castles, perched high on rocky spurs overlooking the Ardennes massif. Large or small, in ruins or remarkably well preserved, they spark the imagination throughout this itinerary deep in the countryside of the Grand Duchy.
Don't be fooled by appearances as the tour begins on a vast plateau in the rural surroundings of Gouvy (Belgium). Very quickly, we find ourselves in the Eislek region of Luxembourg, following a road that takes us deep into secret valleys. Our first stop is at Clervaux, where the first magnificent castle stands tall, setting the tone of what's in store for the rest of this Ardennes tour. Its white rendering makes it stand out from the picturesque ensemble of the parish of St-Côme-et-St-Damien. We walk around this colossal structure featuring a tower on either side, before entering the enclosure. After surviving the torment of time and the Battle of the Ardennes (winter 1944), the castle has been fully renovated, which probably explains why it looks so immaculate in comparison with many of Luxembourg's other seigniorial dwellings.
Low light and wind turbines
We take to the road again, up through the woods to Marnach plateau. We pass close to some wind turbines, their enormous blades turning under the low light of the late afternoon. For thirty kilometres or so, we cross a succession of hills and valleys, as if on a life-size roller coaster! Then, we follow the River Our until we reach the town of Vianden, at nightfall. Our first night excursion for a long time. After parking near the town centre and enjoying a meal at one of the many restaurants here, we walk through the winding cobbled streets up to the rampart walls, shadowed by the castle that dominates the town. Its galleries are lit just enough to generate that typically medieval, moonlit charm. We decide to spend the night here, at a camper van area by the river.
Vianden: an irresistable medieval town
A cable car takes visitors to the crag on which the colossal stone structure stands, but we prefer to walk up via the steep paths, to enjoy the breathtaking views over the Ardennes massif and beyond. In the distance we can see the wind turbines and, beyond them, Germany. As for Vianden castle itself, it's quite simply an extraordinary building, both inside and out! We agree that we've probably never seen such a tall and impressive castle, especially one that's so well preserved!
Brandenbourg: wild and dreamlike
Still enchanted, we head for the Sûre valley. The road winds across vast plateaus before returning to the depths of the valleys. The desolate remains of Brandenbourg castle soon appear, like a crown at the top of the massif. At first, we can only see the towers reaching above the trees. Then we notice its foundations which actually occupy a substantial part of its natural base, painting a wild picture that's the stuff of dreams. We're now following the River Sûre. From the high village of Boursheid, we can still see one of these buildings below us. Yet another epic view that throws us back to the era of knights!
Esch-sur-Sûre: a poetic islet
Our itinerary then takes us down some slopes that are so steep, we feel as if we're plunging into a dark abyss. Indeed, night falls quickly in these gorges, but the presence of the Sûre adds a pleasantly reassuring aspect to this veritable wilderness. We decide to stop off at one of the small campsites on the banks of the river. The next day, we explore the village of Esch-sur-Sûre with its picturesque castle nestling in a loop of the river. Walking high above the river is the best way to observe the water's winding path.
We head back up towards Kandhor and, just beyond the village, embark on a hiking loop that starts at a Memorial to the victims of the Battle of the Ardennes, which offers fantastic views over the River Sûre and the lake contained by the dam. After visiting Wiltz and its Renaissance-style castle, we travel 30 km to Bastogne in Belgium. This town also played a central role during the Second World War and there are a number of memorials that tell the story. That's the last of the romantic castles! We now head for Arlon and another valley that offers a different kind of magic on the banks of the River Semois...
camper van facilities along the way
Vianden Campsite
Well-equipped for camper vans, ideally located with a view of the castle and just 1 km from the town via a riverside footpath. Pitch rate: €17 to €21.60, including electricity and facilities.
Bissen Campsite
Esch-sur-Sûre
Small, well-appointed campsite by the river with dedicated camper van pitches for €18 to €22 per night. Specific quick-stop spaces: €12.
Bastogne camper-van service area
Free municipal service area at Place Patton. Water supply and wastewater facility. 2 km from Mardasson memorial.
Visit the most beautiful castles of Luxembourg...