Bellowing stags in the Ardennes forest

Our nocturnal outing listening out for bellowing stags

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Pauline - Unloved Countries

Member for 4 years 5 months

Ode to unsung places

Mysterious roars echoing through the heart of the Ardennes forest!

OUR NOCTURNAL OUTING LISTENING OUT FOR BELLOWING STAGS

UNUSUAL

The deer mating season lasts from mid-September to mid-October and is one of nature’s finest events.  At this particular time of year, young and old males will fight each other for one very simple reason: to win over hinds. Each year the rutting season draws more and more visitors wanting to hear their raucous call echoing through the forest. At the ski chalet in Samrée (Belgium), forest wardens from the Belgian Forest Service accompany the special red deer rut evening walks. Expectantly, we followed them for a unique nature outing.

When we arrive at the ski chalet, the small room is crammed with around fifty people eager to leave for the tour. A few of the attendees squeeze together to make room for us on the tightly packed benches. Once we’re all seated, the forest wardens provide us with explanations about the deer rutting behaviour followed by a short film.

During this short period, the young stags that do not belong to a herd only have one thing on their minds: to mate with as many hinds as possible. The old males that lead their own herd fight for status and dominance, to avoid having their herd taken over by younger stags. All this while trying to lure new females from neighbouring herds.

Explanations about the deer rutting behaviour

During the deer mating season the dominant stags really have a lot on their plate: they have to watch over their females (some herds number as many as thirty females), mate with the fertile females and chase away the young bucks trying to steal away their herd. This is why it is important for the stags to have the most impressive bellow (or roar). Sometimes, they end up battling each other and the sound of stags locking antlers in head-to-head battles and their might roars is really impressive.  At times they can even get stuck, their majestic ‘crowns’ intertwined.

Make as little noise as possible

Now that we have been given some introductory information, comes the moment we have all been waiting for: the deer rut walk. And to increase our chances to hear their mighty roars, the forest rangers insist we make as little noise as possible, as deer avoid humans like the plague. Our group is divided into several smaller groups, so we can carpool and we end up riding along with another one of the participants. The forest rangers are taking us to a place that is forbidden to the general public during the rutting season. If you get caught there during the daytime in order to renew the experience, you will be fined!

Ardennes forest

Once we are all gathered at the edge of the wood, we split into two groups and leave in different directions to increase our chances of hearing the bellowing stags. We walk along in close formation for at least half an hour before we stop for a while in a beautiful forest clearing. The night is ink black and we can hardly distinguish the tips of our shoes. There are so many of us that we hardly qualify as discreet…

We hear a stag roaring from afar...then, nothing...

he nocturnal forest is eerily quiet and the only sound we hear is that of our coats brushing against each other, the rhythmic pounding of our feet hitting the forest floor, our careful whispers…In the clearing, we concentrate and try and listen for the slightest sound and finally we are in luck; we can hear a stag roaring from afar.  The call barely lasts 5 seconds and for the next 20 minutes we don’t hear another peep, let alone a roar! We go back happy to have enjoyed the experience, but slightly underwhelmed and feeling hungry for more…

The other group was even less lucky than we were, they heard absolutely nothing during their walk. We all go back to the chalet for a nice hot drink before heading back home. 

Our experience was only a partial success, and even though we didn’t get to hear the stags bellowing as much as we would have liked to, we thoroughly enjoyed taking part. The thing is, you can never be sure you will hear the stags rutting call, because deer are inherently unpredictable animals that can smell humans from miles away. The forest wardens seem to think this the reason we didn’t hear them bellowing. When we heard the roars from afar, the wind had just turned and blew our smell towards the stag. It’s quite likely that when it smelled our presence, the stag fled.

 

Despite feeling a small tinge of disappointment, we don’t regret our evening one little bit, and we really recommend this experience to nature lovers and anyone with a curious disposition.

 

It is very important to follow a few ground rules: wear sturdy walking shoes, don’t wear perfume, leave your pets at home, make as little noise as possible. It might seem strange to you, but this also involves wearing a coat that makes as little rustling noise as possible. This may seem trivial, but imagine how much noise it can make when they are fifty people walking in line in the silent forest. And then, if you’re lucky, you might hear the king master of the forest seducing his ladies…

Staying in a charming hotel and soaking in the hunting season's atmosphere

Because we want to make the most of our outing in Samrée, we decide to spend the night in a hotel in the nearby town of La Roche-en-Ardenne. Our hotel is called La Claire Fontaine - a member of the Logis de Belgique – and is run by Michel Son who welcomes us with open arms. He explains to us the core values of the Logis de Belgique; it is a network of charming, family-friendly hotels, where you can expect a friendly welcome and an emphasis on local food. Members are easily recognizable thanks to the logo with a green background on their façade. If you’ve visited France, you may have spotted their French counterparts (called ‘Logis de France’) while driving through the French countryside.

Hostellerie la Claire Fontaine
Mallard duck - Fine dining with game in the Logis

Tradition, local food, a warm welcome…The manager of a Logis is supposed to know his area like the back of his hand and the very friendly Michel Son is no exception to the rule. His family have been running the hotel since 1947, and have been a member of the Logis network for the past ten years or so. Luckily for us, September is also the month when game has pride of place on the restaurant menu, so we enjoy a tasty meal starting with a vegetable soup (made with fresh greens from the vegetable garden) followed by delicious mallard duck.

In conclusion, I would like to say we really loved this experience despite the fact that we did not get to hear the mighty roar of the stag in its full glory. Nonetheless, we enjoyed spending time in nature and experiencing first-hand the atmosphere of a village where the hunting traditions are still very much alive

Enjoy this experience

 

Ski chalet in Samrée
€ 6 /adult
+320499355115
toussaint_francis@yahoo.fr

 

L’Hostellerie La Claire Fontaine
Rue Vecpré, 64 (Route de Hotton - N833)
6980 La Roche en Ardenne - Belgium
Tel +32 (0)84/41.24.70
Fax +32(0)84/41.21.11
info@clairefontaine.be
clairefontaine.be